| This WAS the circuit I used. Take a look at the
page "Better Tach Circuit". For many Smith tach applications
you can just put a variable resistor accross the existing chip
and adjust it for the 8 cyl input and it works great.
The circuit on this page will work for most any tach where your
going from a 4 to an 8 cyl engine, so I'll leave it up here.
The input is from the POINT Side between the coil and the distributor.The
output goes into the tach where the old input was. On my 75, it's
a white wire with a black tracer.
Assembly doesn't have to be real careful. Make sure nothing touches
other things, I put mine in a little plastic box about 2"x3"x1" inch.
Nothing in the circuit get even warm, so you can use a closed box.
I used a small piece of perf board and just soldered everything in.
I did use sockets for the 2 chips, but the tip120 is directly soldered
in.
If you hook it up backwards, you'll blow the tip120 and maybe the
4013. I did it, that's how I know. Just replace them and hook it
up correctly, nothing in the car gets hurt. Make sure you put it
on a FUSED 12v supply, never hook anything up directly. That's where
burnt up mgb's come from.
How it works - The input goes through the 1k and the 1uf cap and
12v zener act as a frequency filter and voltage regulator/limiter.
The signal coming in ranges from 200V to -25V. This would burn out
the chips, so with this the signal is converted to a 12V pulse.
Mine runs about 16.5ms wide.
The CD4011 acts as a buffer and cleaner. It removes most of
the noise from the signal and outputs a 10V pulse that drives the
CD4013. Thats a Flip Flop that is configured to perform a divide
by 2 circuit. On the output it's turned into a 32-34 ms pulse, twice
the input length. Because the cmos chips can't drive the tach directly,
the TIP120 (darlington PNP's) is used to drive the tach. The (3)
2.2K resistors could be replaced with something close to a 700ohm
1/2 watt, but I didn't have one.
The values on the output aren't critical. The 2.2k's are critical
either, I just had a lot of them available.
Also - the led and 2.2k at the output are optional, they just show
you the thing is working, but don't add anything to the circuit.
The 1uf capacitor at the front end is very important. It affects
the frequency response of the buffer circuit - if the value is too
small, you'll get double triggering, to big and it won't trigger
all the time. I think you could use 1-2uf without problem. |